Sunday, June 3, 2012

A little American goodwill

There's a load of heated press in China these days about the evils of foreigners.  From a cellist who was a jerk to an old woman to the drunken English guy assaulting a Chinese girl, the foreign devils seem to be doing nothing positive.  Maybe things have changed since my two years abroad, but I still like to think there are plenty of outstanding expats in China.  Americans abroad are American diplomats, no way of cutting it, and they should make as much of a positive footprint as they can.

Not to toot my own horn so loudly, but there are a few moments in China when I did my part spreading American goodwill.  Obviously as an English teacher at Changchun University of Technology I had a classroom full of students from across China who were open to my cultural diplomacy, but even small things made big differences.

I went ice skating one day in the dead of winter, and I met a family with a few Chinese children on the lake.  Without batting an eye I taught them how to skate backwards, and they loved it!  The parents were impressed and we all shared good times.

During the 2009 spring festival I took a boat from Dalian to Qingdao, 3rd class.  We had to cross the Bohai (Bo Sea, saying "Bohai Sea" is redundant...) and I was legit scared out of my mind- The sea was particularly rough at the time, the captain even considered it too dangerous to cross but said "whatever" and did.  In the hull I was on the verge of getting seasick, but held myself together.  The room was packed with rural Chinese, very dark skinned folk from the countryside returning home for the holidays, and that was also a bit intimidating; I was the only white skinned person on board.  Usually I'm not very concerned when it comes to standing out in a crowd, but the boat was intimate and we were packed together.

Well, rather than let the situation get awkward I introduced myself and asked the kids in the cabin if they had English names.  They were shy at first until I offered to give them their own English name; the change in atmosphere was palpable.  I gave them all English royal names and explained the significance; Elizabeth, Victoria, James etc... the play was so successful even the adults wanted a name!  In the end we all became friends, someone opened a bottle of Chinese liquor, and I somehow managed to keep my stomach in order despite being on a boat sloshing side-to-side.

Maybe the most diplomatic thing I did was with another American buddy of mine on the train from Lanzhou to Dunhuang.  Before leaving the university my administrator friend gave me two bottles of the finest Beijiu, the stuff Mao Zedong drank, and when I checked it out they were worth $100 a pop!  Not something I would ever dream of buying on my own, much less what the average Chinese person would be able to drink in their whole lifetime.  With that in mind I opened one of the bottles on the train and toasted to everyone who cared to join.  It was very cool, and I know the experience left a lasting impressions on the Gansu peasants we caroused with.
Lasting impressions are what matters when a foreigner is abroad.  Many Chinese don't meet foreigners on a regular basis, and when they do it had better be something positive they can remember.  The flip side is Boxer-Rebellion, it's early KMT, it's Cultural Revolution, it's a dark side of Nationalism that spawns on the net and overflows into the streets (think anti-Japanese moments in near history).  I've heard experts label Chinese people as having a "Superiority-Inferiority" complex, the truth is they're people and people want respect.  Plain and simple right?

Sunday, September 18, 2011

Maco Polo a big fat phony?


Daniele Petrella, an Italian archeological trouble-maker, recently claimed Marco Polo never went to China.  His smoking gun, or lack thereof, is the fact that the fabled explorer claimed Mongolian warships had five masts, when in fact they only had three.  Because everything everyone has ever said is without exaggeration.

In an era when Europeans still believed in mermaids, giant reptilian sea monsters and a fictitious Christian Kingdom in the Far East, overstating the size of the Mongolian armada is pretty darn excusable.  Had it not been for the massive tidal waves that thwarted the Khan’s ambitions, Japan would have had a real mess on its hands.  And nothing is crazier than when Mongolians get messy.

 As far as world travelers go, no one comes close to Marco Polo.  Not only is he remembered whenever kids play in swimming pools, but he literally wrote the first travelogue.  But as party-pooper Dr. Fances Wood puts it, his travelogue is merely the first data-base of traveling.

Loath as I am to admit it, Dr. Wood made a pretty good case for Polo being a fibber in her 1995 book.  More damning than his bogus and audacious claims of extravagant Mongolian masts, Dr. Wood has proven there is no record whatsoever that Polo ever went to China.

When Europe was reeling from the Black Death, and was considered too dirty to conquer by the Mongolians, China already had a sophisticated publishing system in place.  The Yangzhou Gazzette is one such publication to come out of the Song Dynasty, and as earthshaking as the epic East-Meets-West should have been, there isn’t a single mention of the Venetian in any article.

Does that mean good ol’ Marco made up everything about high-fiving the Emperors?

One time I thought I met the governor of Jilin province, which made me feel like I had also met an Emperor.  As it turned out I didn’t meet anyone that cool, but I still wrote about the experience.  At the same time I’m not the guy who shaped history textbooks from Beijing to Timbuktu.

Then why do Chinese students, and I mean incredibly intelligent Chinese students with BAs from prestigious institutions, take it as fact that a Venetian went to China?

I’ve been told by a number of close Chinese friends that he wrote a book about his travels.  And since books are never wrong, especially during an era when Europeans believed Jews caused the Black Death and brushing your teeth with urine was kosher, it must be true.

Dr. Wood explained it in a funny sort of way to me in an email exchange:

“The Chinese like Polo because they consider he 'discovered' China for Europe- in the same way, they liked Edward Heath because he recognized China and raised our relations to Ambassadorial level, ditto Richard Nixon.”

She went further by saying he probably made it well into Persia, and heard stories from traders along the Silk Road.  He collected their stories, added an Italian re-tweaking, and there you have a book that served as the basis of European knowledge until the Age of Discovery.

 Marco Polo in Hangzhou, there! Indisputable proof he went to China!

 Who's your Great Khan?

Nonetheless, his statue remains tall and prominent in Hangzhou, the temporary capital of unoccupied Song China for 100 years (the Mongolians conquered China in stages, and when Chinese tribute from the south stopped flowing they collected with interest).

I’m not happy about it, but the arguments against Marco are pretty airtight.  I’d love to hear from any Italians out there by the way, like, is it a little fishy that an Italian archeologist from Naples would try and smear the good name of a Venetian explorer?

Sunday, September 4, 2011

The #1 thing I miss about China:

You don't tip in China.

I was at a bar recently, and at the end of the evening I paid for my drinks in cold hard cash. Arguably it was a rash decision, but I had a twenty bill to cover $14 in gin and tonics. The bartender took the money, and said something to the tune of "your credit is good here" and kept all my change. Infuriating.

My first month in Changchun some friends and I decided to splurge on fancy restaurants because why save money? Spending $14 on a meal in the US isn't out of the ordinary, maybe gets you a nice buger, fries and a drink. In China, well, developing China like in Changchun, that buys a feast in a posh environment.

So my friends and I ate out, and we were for the most part amazed by the level of service and decided to leave a 20% gratuity. As we were walking out of the restaurant our waitress ran outside with the money and said "you left your money at the table!" When we tried to comfort our distraught fuwuyuan by telling her not to worry, it's yours and you should keep it, she steadfastly refused.

So yes, without being preachy I can still be honest and say that particular Chinese custom works for me.  Tips are not a right is all I'm saying, shouldn't a satisfied customer be all the necessary reward?  Maybe that's just my excuse for being cheap :p

 The best dumpling restaurant in Shanghai- great food, great service and no tips!

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

Coming soon! Dating Chinese!

I've been busy recently and haven't had so much time to spend on the blog, but the next installment should have less words and more gossip!

Without getting into specifics, there won't be real names, but real events!  Maybe I can fit bears into the post as well..

Royal Dutch Shell’s perspectives on the South China Sea: Balanced and Unbalanced security dilemmas


In January of 2011 Royal Dutch Shell released a grim outlook of the world energy situation.  Codenamed the “scramble” scenario, Shell predicts that starting around 2017 the pressures related to surging Asian energy demand will boil over, and nations will take unilateral action to secure resource-rich areas.  Among other places would be the vast natural gas fields in the Spratly islands.

The RDS document, “Signals and Signposts”, takes a look at the South China Sea, and maintains that SCS resources are of greater concern to smaller countries than to China.  Despite China’s broad claims to the region, it has yet to establish a tangible and permanent foothold. (Source: FP Niel Goldberg, http://www.foreignpolicy.com/articles/2011/07/11/the_south_china_seas_georgia_scenario)  China’s motivation has everything to do with the American navel presence in the region.  Unlike ASEAN countries, China views the American 7th fleet as a hostile force capable of destroying 90% of the Middle Kingdom’s energy imports (according to an analyst with CSIS the US Navy already has the capability to do so by chocking the straights of Malacca).


US 7th Fleet: between 60 and 70 ships, 200-300 aircraft and upwards of 40k personnel.

Straight of Malacca, 90% of Chinese energy imports currently flow through the straights


The resources in the South China Sea are immense, with the potential to supply SCS countries with natural gas for the foreseeable future.  There are over 25 trillion barrels of proven natural gas reserves in the SCS, more than sufficient to supply the estimated 3.5 trillion barrels per year of expected consumption by 2020.  (Source: Global Security: http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/world/war/spratly-oil.htm)

Competing territorial claims, however, remain the crux of the problem.  If “scramble” is to be avoided, then there must be energy cooperation and agreement between countries regarding who can access what.  Rather than shore up resources, a developed natural gas market would be key to easing tensions.  This goes hand in hand with energy cooperation, and is more secure and open than secretive long-term energy contracts currently the norm in Asia.

The importance of Floating Liquefied Natural Gas platforms:

The key factors at play regarding FLNG platforms are two fold.  These floating natural gas extraction platforms can stay in place over natural gas fields for 25 years until the field is can no longer produce sufficient quantities of NG, at which point the structure will simply disengage and float to another field.  Royal Dutch Shell is the only player that can produce such an engineering marvel at this time.

As Professor Ronald Ripple bluntly stated at an Australia Embassy event on the future of Asian natural gas markets, no other energy company has the resources or the will to implement a competitive FLNG program.  Chevron, however, will be looking to gauge the success of its competitor, and should all go well this multinational oil firm would follow suit.

The importance of FLNG platforms cannot be overstated.  Capable of withstanding category five typhoons, these platforms have an exceptionally long lifespan of 50+ years averaging 100,000 barrels of liquefied natural gas per day.  To put this into perspective:

2010 NG Output and Demand in barrels equivalent per year:

Vietnam:            Output:            50 billion             Demand:  50 billion
China:                Output:            522 billion           Demand: 547 billion
Taiwan:              Output:            2.3 billion            Demand: 75 billion
One FLNG:        Output:            365,000
Midterm sweeping FLNG program (four platforms):  1.5 billion           
Source: 2010 World Fact Book

Furthermore, increasing bulk orders of FLNG platforms will eventually drive the costs down.  Samsung Heavy has disclosed the total cost of producing an FLNG is a mere 3 billion USD compared to the selling price of 13 billion USD for the initial FLNG platform.  (Source: Fox Business News, http://www.foxbusiness.com/markets/2011/06/01/samsung-says-shell-prelude-flng-vessel-cost-3-billion/)  Samsung is clearing a ten billion dollar profit from the deal.  Further down the line, as more companies, like Chevron, compete for FLNG contracts the price could very well fall within the means of many SCS countries.

Why Energy Deals are important to understanding the political developments in Asia: Asian petroleum companies are state owned enterprises, and need the go-ahead from the top levels of government.

Energy deals in Asia are inherently political, for no other reason than the national petroleum firms are national firms.  The actions of these firms must be blessed from top government officials, especially when sensitive topics are involved.  In terms of Taiwan, a top tier core interest of the PRC, any form of energy cooperation would have to be agreed on and negotiated with the utmost forethought.  This leads to geopolitical ramifications in the form of balanced and unbalanced energy deals.

Balanced:
At a Carnegie Endowment for Peace conferences on China/Taiwan relations, Foreign Minister Dr. Shin Yuan Lai was enigmatic regarding the current state of play regarding energy cooperation with the mainland.  CPC Corp, (Taiwan’s national oil firm) and CNPC (China National Petroleum) entered an energy partnership to jointly develop gas fields in the Taiwan straights back in October of 2010.  The minister’s lack of an answer is also an answer.

A conspiracy theorist may argue she was holding back information on purpose.  If her response is taken at face value, however, it can mean one of two things.  If she really is out of the loop, the importance of the energy deal could be above her need-to-know status and thus something quite serious.  Another possibility would be that the national oil firms were simply working together and there is nothing note-worthy to speak of.  As the saying goes, business is business.

There are telling signs, however, that the energy pact is indeed happening at the highest level.  According to the US-China economic and security commission, the PRC is taking a “carrot and stick” approach to Taiwan.  The carrots include beneficial economic arrangements, including trading privileges, as well as cultural exchanges that favor Taiwan.  While Taiwan has a 2,000 Chinese student quota in place, China has no such restriction.  As a result, there are nearly one million Taiwanese living in China.  The willingness of China to except anything less than a 50-50 deal shows the preferred way forward is friendship and integration, even when that means operating on uneven grounds.

Unbalanced:
On the other hand, the energy cooperation between Vietnam and China is unfolding in potentially troubling ways.  On July 10th, ConocoPhillips ended its partnership with Vietnam Petroleum.  (Source: http://www.reuters.com/article/2011/07/08/vietnam-energy-conocophilips-idUSL3E7I80EZ20110708)  The oil giant and Vietnam’s national oil company parted ways following years of joint development.  Several factors may help explain ConocoPhillips actions.

The company may have swallowed the sunk costs of developing joint projects with Vietnam Petroleum, realizing the end game would be far too costly.  This is troubling news for the development of Asian gas markets.

The company may have also been unsettled with the security situation in the SCS, and fear any degree of association with political happenings.  Chinese vessels fired on a British exploratory ship near the Philippines last year in contested waters.  Being in partnership with Vietnam’s national oil firm, which hedges its maneuvers with the Vietnamese Army and Navy in ways that provoke China, could hamper trade relations with the Middle Kingdom. 

As a result of ConocoPhillips ending its partnership, Vietnam Petroleum has decided to scrap the project all together.  The national oil firm has instead reached an agreement with China Petroleum.  These two national oil firms have agreed to a joint pipeline venture, in which the Qinzhou fields of Guangxi Province will supply all of Vietnam’s energy needs for the near and mid term.  (Source: http://www.reuters.com/article/2011/07/11/vietnam-petroliex-refinery-idUSL3E7IB0A020110711)  Top Vietnamese officials were needed to sign off on the deal, a decision that may jeopardize Vietnamese energy security.

China has already proven it is willing to restrict critical material as a policy tool.  The decision to halt rare earth elements to Japan following territory disputes is a clear indication that national firms are subject to political orders from Beijing.  Should China be in a position to supply Vietnam’s entire natural gas and petroleum needs, and territory disputes arise, there is a clear likelihood energy resources will be halted.

If Vietnam Petroleum does not choose to develop traditional gas fields, an alternative would be the acquisition of FLNG platforms.  Over time, once the FLNG program is successful, the high price tag of FLNG will drop dramatically as Chevron enters the fray, and more FLNG producing companies are able to compete.  Samsung Heavy Industries is one of four companies in Asia capable of producing FLNG platforms.  In the future Samsung Heavy Industries may find it desirable to produce FLNG at lower costs.

The Solution: Develop Asian gas markets

Unlike North America, where the gas markets are firmly established with developed spot pricing based on gas-to-gas trading, Asian gas markets rely entirely on long-term contracts.  As a consequence, firms such as Shell sign secretive deals with countries guaranteeing long-term supply.  An important example is the agreement between Shell and Taiwan, in which Shell will provide 2 million barrels of liquefied natural gas per day until 2020, starting in 2017.  This deal will provide a significant percent of Taiwan’s total NG demand.  Shell has said it will supply the LNG from supply fields throughout its global supply network, however, the FLNG platform at Prelude and others in the Asian Pacific region will undoubtedly play a strong supply role; there are no pipelines to Taiwan and LNG must be shipped, making transportation costs a factor.  If all goes well, Shell will begin operating the initial FLNG platform before the 2017 date.


Asian gas is currently supplied by long term contracts, shipped to destinations

Expansive supply sources will help develop the market, while also mitigating the risk of SCS tensions from spinning out of control.  An energy secure Asia is a stable Asia, and one where “scramble” is avoided.

Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Introduction

After spending two years in Changchun, Jilin province, and another nine months at home in DC attending many conferences hosted by think tanks, I have decided to share some of my thoughts about China and the USA.  Let's not get ahead of ourselves though.  I am by no means a China expert, but I have some unique experiences that may provide insights.  I'm always looking for a discussion about China, and I value any thoughts or opinions you may have.  So check it out, and enjoy!

Some of my featured posts will include:

A comparison of the Dalian and BP oil spills
A look at the Taiping Rebellion and US Civil War
China/US energy cooperation
Rare earths
China's foreign development
Think tank event synopsis

Also some fun lite fare:

Chinese poems
Chinese eats
Business in China
The 8 seasons of Changchun
Travel in China
Teaching in China
Bears
Much much more!

I was attacked by a jaguar


My near death experience at a Chinese Zoo

My attention grabbing headline aside, I also wanted to say a few words about the state of Chinese zoos.  First, I really was attacked by a jaguar at a zoo in Suzhou. 真的。Let me back up a few years by saying, before my trip to China the only zoo I ever visited was the National Zoo here in DC.  Overall I would say the animals are well treated, well fed, and the cages are bolted in place.  The only disappointment at the National Zoo is the fact that the lions and tigers are in pits very far away from visitors, and you can’t get a close up view.

Not so in China.

The zoo I visited was in Suzhou, a garden city situated along the Grand Canal.  There are plenty of regional opera styles in China, and Suzhou opera is famous for horrific tragedies.  My potential fate at the paws, claws and jaw of a raging jaguar would have been fitting material.

Chinese zoos are depressing to begin with.  The animals are mistreated, starved and neglected.  Overall it is a dire situation, nearly as dire as the shoddy infrastructure containing the animals.

The saddest panda in the world, for instance, lives at the Suzhou zoo.  He was enormous, and my veterinarian friend informed me his size was due to malnutrition from not eating the proper bamboo.  He was dirty, and barley had enough energy to lift his hefty paw up to scratch his belly.

And then I visited the “wild cat” section.  I have never been face to face with giant cats before, I mean literally face-to-face.  The only thing separating me from the wild cats was a pane of glass.  Right away I should have noticed two things about the jaguar.  He was very thin.  He was also listless, pacing back and forth in his small rectangular cell.

In hindsight I know that means he was starving, and anxious because delicious human meat was passing his cage all day.

I did something stupid.  I sat down on my haunches, waved my hand at the jaguar, and said “hello friend! How are you? I’ve never seen anyone like you this close before!”  And then the jaguar smashed his entire body, with all his force and fury, against the thin pane of glass separating the two of us.  He was going for my face.  The thin glass pane shook, it seemed to bend outwards, and I saw, inches away from my face, the inside of the jaguar’s mouth.  In gory detail before me were his yellow teeth, quivering nostrils, and cold murderous eyes.

A raging death machine
 Image from worldwildlife.org

There would have been no contest.  None at all.  I can only imagine fending the starving jaguar off with my arms as he leapt on top of me, swiping away my pitiful defenses before having his fill of Montie meat.

The pane held, and I survived unscathed.  But the experience made me think: there must be incidents at zoos all across China where big cats break out and devour people.  Those statistics are people, and they probably suffered the scariest demise.

Needless to say, my advice for future zoo goers in the Middle Kingdom is straightforward: don’t get too close to the jaguars, the cages may not hold.